Travel Guide: Kauai, Hawaii
Everything you need to know to plan a trip to Kauai. The guide includes recommendations, helpful info, and photo inspiration.
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Kauai is the place you go when you want to feel far away….like Castaway far away…a small speck in the middle of the Pacific Ocean (because that’s what you are/where you are) where you’re surrounded by lush, dense rainforests and taro fields, where you swim all day to your heart’s content, eat so much fresh fruit you question what you’ll do when you get home and have to go without, where you become a bird/nature person and watch the geckos flex on the railing of your lanai, and each sunset is better than the last.
The island is rugged and more rustic (less developed) than the other Hawaiian islands, but it’s also more mellow and charming.
According to Hawaii’s tourism website, Kauai has more than 40 miles of beach coastline, and 97% of the land is undeveloped. This makes the island a prime place for hiking, swimming, bird watching, surfing, snorkeling, diving, whale watching, searching out sea turtles and dolphins (from a distance, of course), paddle boarding, kayaking, etc.
It also makes for a great place to just relax. You’re in nature, baby, and you’ve got little cell service to check up on stuff back home.
When to Go to Kauai
This will likely be driven by what you want to do and your budget. In general, Kauai is a great place to visit all year round, but here are some things to consider:
Whale watching starts in January and goes into spring, but this period is also the most expensive (and the rainiest).
May through September is generally dryer for hiking and is less expensive for airfare and accommodations, but the temps are higher.
Where to Stay in Kauai
The island is comprised of these main areas: the North Shore, East Side, Lihue, South Shore, and West Side.
We recommend staying on the North Shore in Princeville (more residential) or Hanalei. Our friends, Tim and Lisa, rent out their large condo in Princeville at different points throughout the year. Here’s a link to their Airbnb listing if you’d like to book it.
We also made a list of other Airbnbs we recommend that are in the same area where we stayed (Nihilani, Princeville).
If you’re looking for a luxury Kauai experience, there’s a new 5-star hotel opening in February (2023) called 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay - it looks incredible and has a prime view of Hanalei bay.
How to Get Around Kauai
You’ll need a car to get around the island, and we recommend booking this as early as possible to get a good deal. We booked with Enterprise in Lihue (3-3257 Kuhio Hwy, Lihue, HI 96766) and paid $690 for 2 weeks in early September.
Bonus: there’s a Costco in Lihue (near the Enterprise) where you can fill up before returning your rental car.
There’s only one main road that goes around the island, and no major highways, so you’ll want to pick an area of the island to explore each day so you’re not driving excessively.
If you don’t like driving, you may also want to consider spending a few days on the North Shore, a few on the East Side, then South Side, etc. The East and South areas have many of the major hotel chains if that’s what you’re looking for.
A few things to note about driving in Kauai:
The speed limits are likely slower than what you’re used to back home (25-45 mph). Relax, put on some good music, and enjoy the drive.
Many of the smaller bridges in Kauai have just one lane. This means that each side takes turns crossing a few cars at a time.
Now that you have the foundation for planning your trip, here’s what you really need to know to make your trip great.
Food & Restaurants in Kauai
Food Costs
Before we dive into where to eat and drink, we have to mention Kauai’s high food costs. Eating out can be expensive, but we found most restaurants to be only a bit higher than California prices. That can still make for an expensive meal, but we were more shocked by the very high grocery store food prices (ex: Oatly oat milk in LA ~$5, on Kauai, it was $9).
Food prices have always been higher on the island as it has to import most things. We visited during a high inflation period, which could have contributed to even higher costs, but we’d recommend going to a local farmers market to buy produce (veggies and fruit), eggs, bread, and protein. You can find most staples for quite a bit less than the grocery stores, and you’re supporting local growers. Kauai farmer’s markets are accessible, and you can find more info here.
The farmers markets also give you an opportunity to try new-to-you fruits and vegetables. Our friends introduced us to Hawaiian breadfruit (Ulu), and it became a fast favorite. The way to prepare it when it’s unripe and better for savory eating is essentially to cut it up, boil it for a bit, and then pan-fry with salt and whatever seasoning you want. The outside is crispy, and the inside is tender and moist.
Restaurants & Food Trucks
AMA Restaurant *make a reservation (Hanalei): try the nuoc cham brussels sprouts, ramen, ono donburi bowl, and peanut butter and coconut pie
Tahiti Nui (Hanalei): try the coconut shrimp and mai tais at this local institution
Fresh Bite Kauai (Hanalei): great lunch spot for healthy and interesting salads, wraps, bowls and ulu (breadfruit) fries.
Holey Grail Donuts (Hanalei): try everything at this donut food truck. Every single donut is very good! (see photo below)
Cafe Tumeric (Hanalei): the menu rotates, but the the food truck has great veggie and meat/fish options for everyone
Wishing Well Shave Ice (Hanalei): we recommend the Tropical Bliss, Hanalei Sweetie, and Caffeine Monkey.
Sushi Girl Kauai (Kilauea): some of the best fish we had on the island, and they also have interesting veggie options for non-fish eaters.
Kilauea Bakery & Pizzeria (Kilauea): a great place to grab a fresh slice of pizza and some local sweets. They also sell local food goods like Anahola granola.
Fish Bar Deli (Kapa’a): great food and many options for veggie, meat, and fresh fish. There’s also a great little market connected to the restaurant.
Aloha Roastery (Kapa’a): good pour over style coffee and espresso drinks.
Kenji Burger (Koloa): even though this is a burger place (and the burgers are good), we recommend the sushi burritos and furikake fries. Great option for lunch on the south shore.
Midnight Bear Breads (Hanapepe): delightful bread, pastries, sandwiches, and pizza in the south part of the island, and they also sell their goods at the Anaina Hou Farmers Market on Saturdays. The rosemary and sea salt baguettes, and herb foccacia, are a must order.
Japanese Grandma's Cafe *make a reservation (Hanapepe): lots of great sushi on a relaxing outdoor patio. The drinks are fantastic too - cocktails and local beer are recommended.
A few other places were recommended, but we didn’t have time to try:
Bar Acuda (Hanalei)
Postcards Cafe (Hanalei) *make a reservation
The Dolphin Restaurant (Hanalei)
Kilauea Fish Market (Kilauea)
The Tasting Room (Koloa)
Koloa Fish Market (Koloa)
G's Juicebar (Waimea)
Things to Do in Kauai
Top 3 beaches for swimming and snorkeling:
Hanalei Beach (north shore): gentle waves for swimming during the day and at sunset. You can also do fires at night on the beach, which is what we did. We lucked out with a mix of dramatic clouds and partially clear sky with a bright moon and stars.
Tunnels Beach (north shore): great for swimming and snorkeling right off the shore. We saw lots of big, bright fish in the water and a Hawaiian monk seal and sea turtle sleeping on the beach (keep your distance). Maniniholo Dry Cave is right across the road and is worth checking out too.
Hideaway Beach (north shore): the walk down to this hidden beach isn’t for the faint of heart. It’s a steep and muddy climb up and down a hidden path, and you’ll question if it’s really worth it…and it is. Secluded, beautiful at sunset, and unlike any other beach you’ve been to.
Bonus Pick: Poipu Beach (south shore): a beautiful beach with plentiful reefs and snorkeling right offshore, calm swimming bays, and beautiful sand to walk along the shore. There’s a decent amount of shade here under trees too.
Hiking & Other Sights:
Queen’s Bath (north shore): this is a unique tide pool experience, but doesn’t come without risk. We went with our friends who knew about ideal tide conditions, knew how to navigate the muddy trail and rocks safely, etc. We enjoyed our experience, but be careful if you attempt to visit (calm waves, appropriate water levels, storm systems, where you stand to take photos, etc.) – it can be dangerous.
Waimea Canyon & Pu'u Ka Pele Lookout (west side): the Grand Canyon of the Pacific does not disappoint. It’s a fairly easy drive up to Pu’u Ka Pele lookout, and there’s a number of hikes in Waimea Canyon like Kukui Trail.
Kauai has some incredible hiking if you can withstand the humidity and mud. Check out All Trails for more info on top hikes, hike conditions, difficulty, and reviews.
Snorkeling, Surfing, Whale Watching, Boat Trips & Helicopter Tours
We didn’t do any organized trips while we were in Kauai, but there are a number of sites where you can find reputable guides and tour options for activities like touring the Napali (aka Na Pali) coast and other areas of Kauai:
Get Your Guide
Trip Advisor
Airbnb
Viator
Other exercise
If you’re staying at an Airbnb and want access to a gym, Kilauea Phys Ed offers weekly memberships and daily drop-in options. The weekly membership is a much better deal than the daily.
A few parting thoughts…
Be a kind and patient visitor and be respectful of indigenous Hawaiians. They’re very proud of their culture and heritage, so take some time to learn about it and appreciate it.
Things also take longer on the island…be patient. And if you want to go the extra mile, bring reef-friendly sunscreen to protect the reefs and wildlife.
See additional photos from our trip
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Fantastic guide!
I must say, the second photo is one of the most beautiful landscape images I have seen. All the photos are wonderful, but that one stands out.
This is so useful!